Tuesday, September 19, 2006

The End - Sort Of...


Its hard to believe, but we are now safe and sound back in Brooklyn. I found myself at jury duty in Long Island yesterday, and had the surreal experience of being nestled deep in American culture not 48 hours after we'd arrived. So what just happened these past eight weeks? What did I learn? How will we be effected by what we've done? To be honest, I'm not really sure yet - but I am incredibly grateful for the opportunity to have embarked on this adventure. You never know what's around the next bend...

A few things that surprised me:
- My wife is way tougher than I ever realized
- Kenya isn't all that cheap, it can be a challenging place for budget travelers
- Family bonds are stronger than time

And lastly, we want to thank a few people who helped us make this journey a reality:
>Nana - for her unexpected generosity
>Melanie - our superb housesitter
>Our Parents - for being so supportive
>Virginia - coming up from Philly to help us pack and taking us to the airport
>Tracy - loaning her backpack
>Dave - loaning his mosquito net
>Everyone who sent feedback about this blog...your encouragement made creating it a truly rewarding experience!

Village Images


Village - grating coconut
Originally uploaded by mischamac.
No one can say that we didn't pull our weight on this trip...Here Anita is demonstrating her coconut grating skills while getting reacquainted with her relatives. Click the photo for more images from our visit to the village.

Friday, September 15, 2006

Our Visit to the Village


Excerpts from Mischa's Journal:

Dr. Mambo and his nephew Elias picked us up in Mombasa early Saturday morning. After stopping at the store to buy sugar and picking up Elias's wife, Ruth, we drove the 50 bumpy kilometers to the Kaloleni area, northwest of Mombasa.

As we neared the compound, set amongst coconut palms and gentle hills, we heard women's voices singing. Pulling the cars into the village's center, we realized the singing was for our arrival. About a dozen women dressed in colorful wraps and head scarves sang a welcoming cheer and tossed rice into the air. It was an emotional scene as the women (Anita's aunts) descended on their long-awaited relative, my wife, whom they only know as "Kadama."

Soon we were situated on the front porch area of the compound's main home. It is made from packed mud walls and a corrugated metal roof. All the women and girls sat on one side, the men and boys on the other. We greeted Anita's elderly uncles who are the leaders of the family. While neither man spoke English, we were able to express our mutual happiness in the reunion and thanked them for having us to their home.

We spent the rest of the day eating a tremendous breakfast (omelets, chapatis, sweet buns and chai), meeting and getting to know more relatives, learning the names of all the children, and taking a walk down to the village's crops. At one point, some coconuts were gathered and a machete was used to open them up so we could drink the water inside.

Just as the sun was at its hottest sodas were distributed to cool us off. We were introduced to a goat and a chicken and encouraged to touch them before they were taken away to be prepared for the meal. Dinner was served under kerosene lamps inside the 2-room house that Dr. Mambo owns. The food was amazing! We feasted on goat stew and roast chicken (of course) with fresh coconut rice and tomato/onion salad.

The rest of the evening was whiled away chatting with the middle-aged men around Mambo's table. We discussed Kenyan politics, current events, culture, Nigerian movies and even pro wrestling.

Later when we said goodnight to everyone most of the women were still chatting away on the porch. I noticed the intense stars and nearly full moon burning above the tall coconut trees. It was surreal...you didn't even need a flashlight to see your way around. The next morning we awoke before dawn, thanked all the relatives and slowly made our way back to Mombasa.


Excerpts from Anita's (Kadama's) Journal:

Saturday, September 9th was one of the best days of my life. On our drive there, Baba's (my father's) words "they are waiting for you" kept repeating in my mind. I felt a nervous excitement and butterflies in my stomach. I kept telling myself not to let my expectations get too high, cautioning myself that in reality things might turn out to be a watered down, subdued version of what I had imagined after over 20 years of anticipation. Little did I know that the experience of meeting my relatives, my clan, finding my roots in the most direct way imaginable would, in fact, exceed my expectations.

As we pulled up we heard the most welcoming sound- the women rejoicing by singing " ahloo la la loo" and swaying their bodies side to side. I felt a great sense of joy and a wave of emotion, as I held back tears of happiness. The women, my aunts, surrounded us. Each of them put out their hands to greet us. My heart swelled. Baba was beaming as he began to introduce us to our family members.

As I became accustomed to my new environment, it occurred to me that the compound/settlement was much smaller than my 9-yr-old brain remembered it. Also I was surprised to learn that almost everyone spoke Swahili in addition to our mother tounge, Chikambe...and that those of my generation (my adult cousins) spoke English fluently.

During the preparation for our dinner feast, the women gathered together to grate coconut for the meal. They enlisted me to try the jagged knife-shaped aparatus. They placed a "kanga" (colored Kenyan cloth) around my waist and begun the verbal rejoicing ritual as I tried to grate the coconut. They kept gazing at me with so much longing saying, "ah, Kadama ... you are home." I felt so at peace, so cherished and so connected to my family and my old, yet new, home.

Thursday, September 14, 2006

Kenyatta


Kenyatta - mosiac
Originally uploaded by mischamac.
In a previous blog entry (The Olympic Medalist) I described our visit to Kenyatta University to hunt down some of the Mambo family's past. This is part of the mosiac "Knowledge Uplifts" that my mother-in-law created for the university library 20+ years ago.

Nakuru


Nakuru - flamingos
Originally uploaded by mischamac.
Nakura National Park is best known for its alkaline lake which attracts a tremendous population of migratory pink flamingos. We saw loads of interesting animals driving around the surrounding park with a guide, but the highlight of our 'safari' was spotting a lion and lioness. Click the image for more...

Kakamega Forest

We met some Kenya Wildlife Service employees during our trip to Kakamega National Park and they were kind enough to invite us to their home for lunch. We ate 'githeri' (a filling combination of maze, black-eyed peas, and potatoes) and listened to reggae music. For more images from this beautiful forest park, click the photo.

Friday, September 08, 2006

Kenya Trek Begins


Nairobi - Bomas
Originally uploaded by mischamac.
Anita wowed the crowd when she joined the pro's at Bomas of Kenya - a Nairobi cultural center that revives traditional Kenyan dances.

Monday, September 04, 2006

The Olympic Medalist


Yesterday we found ourselves sharing a cup of tea in the home of an Olympic medalist.

Anita and I visited Kenyatta University outside of Nairobi. This is where Anita lived with her parents from age 5 to 10. It’s an isolated campus on the outskirts of the city, comprised of various zones for housing, academic and scientific buildings, sports fields, etc. We were thrilled to find that the mosaic mural that Anita’s mom had created 23 years ago for the university library entranceway was intact. It’s a gorgeous piece of colorful art entitled “Knowledge Uplifts” – and the name-plate memorializes the artist Marjorie Mambo.

We continued our search for the houses that Anita had lived in during her time at KU. All we had to go on were some vaguely remembered addresses from her father…as well as Anita’s own vague childhood memories of where each house was located. At one point I inquired with a man in the campus neighborhood. Samuel was happy to hear Anita’s story and immediately committed himself to helping in our search. A big and jovial man, Samuel is in his 40’s, has 6 kids, plays bass in a band, is an ex-Nairobi policeman, and now works in security for the university.

Together we searched the neighborhood of identical duplex houses – all the while Samuel was laughing and joking, and greeting all his neighbors with more of the same. After finding a professor who remembered Dr. Mambo from 20 years ago and visiting Anita’s primary school, we bid Samuel farewell and tried our best to thank him for his unbelievable hospitality.

Next we went to a different part of the campus to find Anita’s last house. It was there that we struck up a conversation with some neighbors who invited us into their home for tea. We quickly learned that Prof. Dr. Mike Boit was quite an accomplished man…

Upon telling Dr. Boit that I grew up in Colorado, he told us the story of how in 1974 he won the Boulder Bolder (Colorado’s version of the NYC Marathon – but 10km). Apparently a local man who was also named Mike was favored to win and the large crowd along the route was cheering enthusiastically “GO MIKE” – for which Mike Boit mistakenly understood to be cheers for him. He had planned to run the first 2km of the race and then drop out as it was only a training run for his specialty – 800 meters. But after 2km, Mike Boit was in the lead, just in front of the other Mike (who’s name he still didn’t know), and didn’t want to disappoint all his ‘new fans’…so he went for it and won the race!

That same year he won bronze in the 800m race at the Montreal Olympic Games. Around that time he was on the cover of Sports Illustrated competing against a famous Cuban runner.

Mike and his wife Lillian are now both Professors at Kenyatta Uni. Their children attend Texas Tech so they find themselves traveling to the US often. Anita and I hope that one day when they pass through New York we’ll be able to return the favor of having the Boit’s into our home for some tea and conversation.

Saturday, September 02, 2006

Chasing Barak


As you may recall from one of the early posts on this blog, I described how I was influenced by reading the Illinois Senator Barak Obama's autobiography about his journey back to his father's homeland in Kenya, and how he and Anita share the experience of growing up half Kenyan, half American.

Imagine our surpise when we arrived in Kenya last week to learn that Sen. Obama had arrived in Nairobi the day before us - to embark on a week-long official government trip, coupled with a visit to his father's village. In one week's time we'll also be visiting my father-in-law's ancestral village in south-east Kenya. The Senator's every move became a national obsession as he met with Kenya's leaders, traveled to the town of Kisimu (also one day before we passed through the same town on our way to Kakamega) for an AIDS test, visited his grandmother at his family's village nearby, and then returned to Nairobi (as we have now done) for a few more appearances to promote free-speech and publicly address other social topics.

We never caught up with him during our respective tours of Kenya, but we feel a connection with Sen. Obama in more ways than one.